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| Phnom Penh - Tuol Sleng and the Killing Fields |
Thursday, March 19, 2009
Saturday, March 14, 2009
Monday, March 9, 2009
Wednesday, March 4, 2009
Monday, March 2, 2009
Thursday, February 19, 2009
Survivor Mekong: Denouement and Credits
As our Mekong adventure draws to a close, I'm finding myself in a reflective state. Sure we saw the remnants of the Killing Fields today, the infamous Tuol Sleng prison and drove in a Tuk Tuk through ghastly parts of Phnom Penh, but to me it's more the whole of the experience than any one part that really stands out. We managed to follow our itinerary to near perfection, including some of the less savory bits that frankly I was a little concerned about: thus the title Survivor Mekong. In hindsight nothing was ever that bad, even from the serpentine market alley in Vientiane to the garbage filled lanes and incessant beggars of Phnom Penh, it would appear we've developed a bit of a skin for this sort of thing. Ending the trip in Phnom Penh was truly a gamble; we knew it was going to be difficult and difficult it is, but we are left with a renewed longing to return home, to the safe confines of our ordinary lives. Nothing in our lives is that bad to mimic even a fraction of the problems most people in Phnom Penh, Cambodia and Laos have to deal with on a daily basis. Again, we leave here renewed in our perspective that we may just be the most fortunate people on Earth, living the best quality of life out of anyone else. That's something that sustains you, makes you grow and become a better and more tolerant person. It's the true buzz of traveling.
Beyond the joy of these experiences, we've met some wonderful people along the way: hotel staff, tuk-tuk drivers, mysterious people in restaurants, heartfelt smiles from ordinary people and of course the numerous friends we met along the way: Kevin and Lorraine (don't worry, Kevin, I never felt like Mt. Rushmore), Kevin from TO who shouted "Paul!" in downtown Siem Reap (hope to hook up again soon), Daniel and Denise from River Heights (remember Laos cooking day on Niagra Street), Bob and Caroline (travel safe), Paulo and that guy from Moncton (hope you get the property on Magnetic Hill). It's almost over and all you like minded people have inspired us to keep traveling and have given us great ideas about where to go next. Wherever that may be, we hope to meet people like you along the way.
Signing off until Winnipeg. I hope you enjoyed my blog. Photographs and more in-depth analysis to follow. (I bet you can hardly wait--you've probably never slept so well).
Beyond the joy of these experiences, we've met some wonderful people along the way: hotel staff, tuk-tuk drivers, mysterious people in restaurants, heartfelt smiles from ordinary people and of course the numerous friends we met along the way: Kevin and Lorraine (don't worry, Kevin, I never felt like Mt. Rushmore), Kevin from TO who shouted "Paul!" in downtown Siem Reap (hope to hook up again soon), Daniel and Denise from River Heights (remember Laos cooking day on Niagra Street), Bob and Caroline (travel safe), Paulo and that guy from Moncton (hope you get the property on Magnetic Hill). It's almost over and all you like minded people have inspired us to keep traveling and have given us great ideas about where to go next. Wherever that may be, we hope to meet people like you along the way.
Signing off until Winnipeg. I hope you enjoyed my blog. Photographs and more in-depth analysis to follow. (I bet you can hardly wait--you've probably never slept so well).
Sunday, February 15, 2009
Survivor Mekong: Siem Reap for Dummies (Like me)
I have heard from a few people that we are "adventurous" travellers, like Steve Fossett flying in a balloon around the world or Ham the Chimp blasting off into outer space. But I beg to differ. Siem Reap is, as was most of Laos, very tourist friendly. All the temples are well demarcated and you can easily view them without a guide if you buy one of the many Angkor books peddled at the entrances. Angkor is also serviced by clean and well maintained toilets for those occasional bouts of Suryavarman's Revenge. Downtown Siem Reap is very safe, with tourist police hanging out on every street corner, though sitting in the shadows so as to not visually disrupt travelling revelers. Pub street and concomitant side streets and back lanes are full of funky little bars, restaurants, massage parlors and Internet shops. With so many people sitting at streetside, it's virtually impossible for crime to take place that is not in full view of hundreds of people. Last night we sat at the Central Cafe and listened to a Khmer rock band belt out songs from The Police, Soundgarden, Alannis Morrisette and the Red Hot Chili Peppers: a pretty ambitious set, but props to them, they played to near perfection.
Head out into the countryside as we did yesterday and you pass villages, pagodas and endless pasture land: some rice fields that are at this point in the year, dust dry. Pass the teaming markets in Siem Reap and there is a bounty of fruits, vegetables and bagettes, with smokey meat stalls and spinning spits. There is no shortage of food here but there is a lack of income, which is a common refrain in many developing countries. You see poverty here, children foraging through garbage bags, and that damn one-legged boy who keeps walking with you asking for money and what do you do? Give him money? Give him food? You cannot possibly give to every sad story here, there are just too many. Of course there's the other omni-present scourge and that is garbage. Cultures that did not have plastic a decade ago have no method of disposal so it piles up in the fields under the sign that says "Keep our city clean."
But for all the sad stories, to consider where Cambodia was barely thirty years ago, it's remarkable how far they've come. Cambodia is open for business and the glitzy hotels along the promenade are proof of that. So don't fear coming to Cambodia: Khmers go out of their way to give you the best service possible and it's a level of service that is long extinct from Western cultures. The vast majority of Khmers are honest, hardworking, FRIENDLY, people who are proud of their country and proud of their hertige, both good and bad.
Of course, we have yet to visit Phnom Penh, but for Siem Reap at least, do not think of us as adventurers, think of us as travelers who really love being around good people, good food and some of the world's most famous and beautiful archeological sites. We're more like Bobo the chimp, coming down from the tree to forage for termites.
Head out into the countryside as we did yesterday and you pass villages, pagodas and endless pasture land: some rice fields that are at this point in the year, dust dry. Pass the teaming markets in Siem Reap and there is a bounty of fruits, vegetables and bagettes, with smokey meat stalls and spinning spits. There is no shortage of food here but there is a lack of income, which is a common refrain in many developing countries. You see poverty here, children foraging through garbage bags, and that damn one-legged boy who keeps walking with you asking for money and what do you do? Give him money? Give him food? You cannot possibly give to every sad story here, there are just too many. Of course there's the other omni-present scourge and that is garbage. Cultures that did not have plastic a decade ago have no method of disposal so it piles up in the fields under the sign that says "Keep our city clean."
But for all the sad stories, to consider where Cambodia was barely thirty years ago, it's remarkable how far they've come. Cambodia is open for business and the glitzy hotels along the promenade are proof of that. So don't fear coming to Cambodia: Khmers go out of their way to give you the best service possible and it's a level of service that is long extinct from Western cultures. The vast majority of Khmers are honest, hardworking, FRIENDLY, people who are proud of their country and proud of their hertige, both good and bad.
Of course, we have yet to visit Phnom Penh, but for Siem Reap at least, do not think of us as adventurers, think of us as travelers who really love being around good people, good food and some of the world's most famous and beautiful archeological sites. We're more like Bobo the chimp, coming down from the tree to forage for termites.
Friday, February 13, 2009
Survivor Mekong: A Land of Wonder and Tears
Cambodia, barely thirty years removed from one of the worst genocides in modern history is still struggling to make a comeback, but the scars of its recent past are still being felt today. It is difficult for us to come face to face with so many amputees: here they seem to be the norm, all landmine victims. If there is any cause that everyone in the world should support, it's banning these little anonymous instruments of death and dismemberment. Around the fabulous temples of Angkor, bands of amputees play Cambodian classical music for dollars and for the privilege selling CDs. "We're not beggars" the sign says, "we want to live with dignity." Dignity. How hard must it be for someone walking on stumps to find dignity in a society that lives for a meager pittance of dollars.
Cambodia is a very moving place, but all the bodily destruction so evident in so many people is balanced by a strong desire amongst the Cambodian people to welcome the world back into their arms. Our hotel, Pavillon d'Orient is incredible, we love it so much we've decided to spend two extra days here, not visiting temples, but hanging around the hotel. We feel like millionairs staying here and the staff treat you like the first customer they've ever seen. How refreshing, if a little overwhelming.
We spent most of today visiting the temples of Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom: incredible structures with detailed carvings all around. In moments when the army of Asian tourists subsided, we were able to take a few pictures we hope will turn out. It's difficult because I've developed a new pet peeve: why is it, when people see something interesting, they cannot take a photograph of just the "the thing"they have to stand in front of it, strike a goofy pose, then wait while the rest of the extended family or bus load do the exact same thing.
The other challenge is the persistent children that haunt every entrance to every temple trying to sell you stuff. Here is your typical exchange:
"Hello, how are you, where are you from?"
"I'm from Canada."
"You from Canada, capital city Ottawa, big cities Toronto and Vancouver and your Prime Minister is Stephen Harper, population 33 million, what is your name?"
"How did you know all that? My name is Paul."
"Mr. Paul you buy something from me."
"No thank you... I..."
"Come on Mr. Paul you promise."
"No, not right now..."
"Oh Mr. Paul, don't walk away, look you make me cry."
Boy it's tough to fend these kids off, but the reward is worth the effort.
Tomorrow it's off to more temples and more information about Vishnu, Apsara and all the fantastic kings who ruled the Khmer empire from 900 until 1200 AD. Our trip is gradually drawing to a close but we've been so busy we cannot even remember arriving in Asia. Asia does that to a person. For anyone who doesn't think they can handle Asia all I can say is "give it a try." You'll be surprised. Still no squatter for me though I have developed a Herculean red welt on my leg from who knows what. (Cicadas revenge perhaps.)
What to do tonight... it's just too hot to do too much.
Cambodia is a very moving place, but all the bodily destruction so evident in so many people is balanced by a strong desire amongst the Cambodian people to welcome the world back into their arms. Our hotel, Pavillon d'Orient is incredible, we love it so much we've decided to spend two extra days here, not visiting temples, but hanging around the hotel. We feel like millionairs staying here and the staff treat you like the first customer they've ever seen. How refreshing, if a little overwhelming.
We spent most of today visiting the temples of Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom: incredible structures with detailed carvings all around. In moments when the army of Asian tourists subsided, we were able to take a few pictures we hope will turn out. It's difficult because I've developed a new pet peeve: why is it, when people see something interesting, they cannot take a photograph of just the "the thing"they have to stand in front of it, strike a goofy pose, then wait while the rest of the extended family or bus load do the exact same thing.
The other challenge is the persistent children that haunt every entrance to every temple trying to sell you stuff. Here is your typical exchange:
"Hello, how are you, where are you from?"
"I'm from Canada."
"You from Canada, capital city Ottawa, big cities Toronto and Vancouver and your Prime Minister is Stephen Harper, population 33 million, what is your name?"
"How did you know all that? My name is Paul."
"Mr. Paul you buy something from me."
"No thank you... I..."
"Come on Mr. Paul you promise."
"No, not right now..."
"Oh Mr. Paul, don't walk away, look you make me cry."
Boy it's tough to fend these kids off, but the reward is worth the effort.
Tomorrow it's off to more temples and more information about Vishnu, Apsara and all the fantastic kings who ruled the Khmer empire from 900 until 1200 AD. Our trip is gradually drawing to a close but we've been so busy we cannot even remember arriving in Asia. Asia does that to a person. For anyone who doesn't think they can handle Asia all I can say is "give it a try." You'll be surprised. Still no squatter for me though I have developed a Herculean red welt on my leg from who knows what. (Cicadas revenge perhaps.)
What to do tonight... it's just too hot to do too much.
Wednesday, February 11, 2009
Survivor Mekong: The Impossible is Possible
It is true and I have the photographic evidence. Scientists have debated for decades, holymen have pontificated and soothsayers have studied the tea leaves, but none have arrived at a conclusion until now. What has been Hawking's achilles heel is now proof in my hands: Julia can cook.
Our last full day in Laos saw us involved in a full day cooking class where we all took part in making Laos food under the watchful eye of our mentor. Then we chowed down on some fantastic grub: sticky rice dipped in a spicy salsa, talapia wrapped in banana leaves, chicken cooked in lemongrass, fish and chicken soup, then coconut and rice pudding with fruit, washed down with the ubiquitous Beerlao. I have some wonderful footage from the Lao market that will bring many the heebie jeebies, but whatever is seen in photographs cannot be dublicated by the sights and sounds of actually being in the markplace.
Tomorrow it's off to Angkor and what should be a fresh adventure, replete with all the good and bad that Cambodia has to offer. We've already heard tales of wonder and tales of horror so we have yet to decide how Cambodia will make us feel. What we do know, is Cambodia will be an intense experience, quite unlike the tranquil setting of Laos.
Here goes...
Our last full day in Laos saw us involved in a full day cooking class where we all took part in making Laos food under the watchful eye of our mentor. Then we chowed down on some fantastic grub: sticky rice dipped in a spicy salsa, talapia wrapped in banana leaves, chicken cooked in lemongrass, fish and chicken soup, then coconut and rice pudding with fruit, washed down with the ubiquitous Beerlao. I have some wonderful footage from the Lao market that will bring many the heebie jeebies, but whatever is seen in photographs cannot be dublicated by the sights and sounds of actually being in the markplace.
Tomorrow it's off to Angkor and what should be a fresh adventure, replete with all the good and bad that Cambodia has to offer. We've already heard tales of wonder and tales of horror so we have yet to decide how Cambodia will make us feel. What we do know, is Cambodia will be an intense experience, quite unlike the tranquil setting of Laos.
Here goes...
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
Survivor Mekong: Laos Continues to Amaze
Sabaidee from Laos, it's been over a week now and we're really getting into the Laos spirit. What's that spirit? It's hard to say, but it involves a dose of fun, a smattering of curiosity and a heap of serenity: the Laos people have to be some of the mellowest people on earth. Go to the night market in Luang Prabang and there's no hard sell, just a smile and "sabaidee!" There's so little crime in this county that locals say the only time you ever see a police officer is when he's directing traffic. The police in Luang Prabang sit in their office and watch television: the Maytag police.
We spent two wonderful days in Vientiane, first at Hotel Beau Rivage, then the second night we moved to the Vansana Mekong, a hotel that opened the day before we arrived. It's about five stories high and has about 200 rooms, but we claimed the distinction of being the FIRST and ONLY guests there. Every time we walked into the lobby, five front desk staff jumped to attention, pressed their hands together and welcomed us. That night we had the pool to ourselves and lucky us, the hotel was offering free beer for all guests. Yes, you heard me right, free beer, which meant free for Julia and I, served in a large contraption called a pump, which looked remarkably similar to the fuel dispensers at the country gas stations.
Early in the day, we booked ourselves into the Green Papaya Spa in Vientiane and had an hour and a half traditional Laos massage and another hour in an aroma-therapy steam bath for the insane price of $20 dollars a piece. Yeah, we're barely surviving over here as you can tell: send money! The massage was excellent, performed by two deceptively sweet torturesses who bent our bodies into figure eights. The spa itself was a little corner of Zen in the middle of a city, you litterally disappeared into ancient asia with smell of green tea wafting from the steam bath.
Of courses we are now in the Luang Prabang, city of temples, little restaurants and quaint bars. What a beautiful little town this is and Lotus Villa, where we're staying is absolutely stunning. It's so hard to do it justice in so few words, but walking around here is like stepping back in time, to a simple Asia or market stalls and quaint restaurants along the Mekong, watching the unique Laos long-boats moor on the banks.
We have visited Khmu and Hmong villages that haven't changed for centuries and learned of their religion and culture. We swam in a spring fed waterfall and tomorrow morning the procession of monks will walk right past our hotel for their morning alms. We have signed up for a cooking class which includes visiting local markets, purchasing supplies then cooking six traditional Laos dishes, then in two days it's off to Angkor. Wow, the tension is starting to build, though I cannot imagine Cambodia beating Laos, but who knows, every day brings more amazing experiences.
We spent two wonderful days in Vientiane, first at Hotel Beau Rivage, then the second night we moved to the Vansana Mekong, a hotel that opened the day before we arrived. It's about five stories high and has about 200 rooms, but we claimed the distinction of being the FIRST and ONLY guests there. Every time we walked into the lobby, five front desk staff jumped to attention, pressed their hands together and welcomed us. That night we had the pool to ourselves and lucky us, the hotel was offering free beer for all guests. Yes, you heard me right, free beer, which meant free for Julia and I, served in a large contraption called a pump, which looked remarkably similar to the fuel dispensers at the country gas stations.
Early in the day, we booked ourselves into the Green Papaya Spa in Vientiane and had an hour and a half traditional Laos massage and another hour in an aroma-therapy steam bath for the insane price of $20 dollars a piece. Yeah, we're barely surviving over here as you can tell: send money! The massage was excellent, performed by two deceptively sweet torturesses who bent our bodies into figure eights. The spa itself was a little corner of Zen in the middle of a city, you litterally disappeared into ancient asia with smell of green tea wafting from the steam bath.
Of courses we are now in the Luang Prabang, city of temples, little restaurants and quaint bars. What a beautiful little town this is and Lotus Villa, where we're staying is absolutely stunning. It's so hard to do it justice in so few words, but walking around here is like stepping back in time, to a simple Asia or market stalls and quaint restaurants along the Mekong, watching the unique Laos long-boats moor on the banks.
We have visited Khmu and Hmong villages that haven't changed for centuries and learned of their religion and culture. We swam in a spring fed waterfall and tomorrow morning the procession of monks will walk right past our hotel for their morning alms. We have signed up for a cooking class which includes visiting local markets, purchasing supplies then cooking six traditional Laos dishes, then in two days it's off to Angkor. Wow, the tension is starting to build, though I cannot imagine Cambodia beating Laos, but who knows, every day brings more amazing experiences.
Saturday, February 7, 2009
Survivor Mekong: Cicadas Taste Like Chicken
No actually they taste just like bugs, as you would expect from a large grasshopper: crunchy on the outside, tender and juicy on the inside. Yes, days two and three atRivertime were quite the experience. We traveled upriver to a series of floating restaurants with our newfound friends Lorraine and Kevin, then debate the finer points of a menu that offered such delectable treats as crickets, buffalo skin, ants egg, giant waterbug sauce and the aforementioned cicadas. On Kevin's urging, we tried the cicadas, fried with garlic and served with a spicy fish sauce.
Today featured a traditional alms-giving ceremony in the village across the road. We were special invitees to the event that turned into quite the liquor-fest and dancing to the Laos beats of a 6000 Watt stereo system. (For 50 people). I chugged the local whisky Lao Lao for the first time, at about 9:00 am. Why wait to party in Laos when the beer comes out by the handful.
I am writing now from Vientiane at the Hotel Beau Rivage as we plot the next step of our journey. To my right in the mighty Mekong that looks like a creek in the dry season but will expand about a hundred-fold in three months. We hope to leave forLuang Prabang tomorrow but if we cannot find a flight we'll stay an extra day in Vientiane. If we cannot get to Luang Prabang we'll probably take the bus to Vang Vieng and chill out with the dirt-bag hippies for a while, drinking Beerlao and floating down the Nam Ngum on an innertube.
That's all for now, please excuse me while I extricate this little grasshopper leg from my teeth. So far everything has worked out better than expected and Laos has proven to be as wonderful as its reviews.
Today featured a traditional alms-giving ceremony in the village across the road. We were special invitees to the event that turned into quite the liquor-fest and dancing to the Laos beats of a 6000 Watt stereo system. (For 50 people). I chugged the local whisky Lao Lao for the first time, at about 9:00 am. Why wait to party in Laos when the beer comes out by the handful.
I am writing now from Vientiane at the Hotel Beau Rivage as we plot the next step of our journey. To my right in the mighty Mekong that looks like a creek in the dry season but will expand about a hundred-fold in three months. We hope to leave forLuang Prabang tomorrow but if we cannot find a flight we'll stay an extra day in Vientiane. If we cannot get to Luang Prabang we'll probably take the bus to Vang Vieng and chill out with the dirt-bag hippies for a while, drinking Beerlao and floating down the Nam Ngum on an innertube.
That's all for now, please excuse me while I extricate this little grasshopper leg from my teeth. So far everything has worked out better than expected and Laos has proven to be as wonderful as its reviews.
Thursday, February 5, 2009
Survivor Mekong: Laos Now... Brown Cow
Greeting everyone from Laos! Yes, I never expected to say that but it's true. We are in Laos and what an experience it has been. I have so many stories to tell I wish I could write them out tonight but unfortunately this computer is quite slow and neither Internet nor electricity are all that reliable in these parts. Everything from the train ride, to the scenery of shanties along the way, to the dense, manic market in Vientiane, to the ride to Rivertime and today's excursion to the local village, the temple, the school and the shaman was an experience beyond what we've ever done before. There is a lot of meditating that goes on when you see what we've seen, what's life about? Poverty. What's happiness, it's a mixed bag of emotions that flood over you and you cannot comprehend it all at once. Perhaps when we're back home we'll derive some meaning, but one thing we know for sure is that so far, the people of Laos have been very warm, inviting and willing to share their lives with us.
That's all for now. The food here at Rivertime has been fantastic and yes, Beerlao is great! What more do you need for a civilized holiday. Air conditioning... bah! No gaps in the floor... pshaw.
I will write again from Luang Prabang but rest assured we are doing well and enjoying ourselves immensely. More adventure tomorrow and more beers.
Sabaidee from Laos,
Paul
That's all for now. The food here at Rivertime has been fantastic and yes, Beerlao is great! What more do you need for a civilized holiday. Air conditioning... bah! No gaps in the floor... pshaw.
I will write again from Luang Prabang but rest assured we are doing well and enjoying ourselves immensely. More adventure tomorrow and more beers.
Sabaidee from Laos,
Paul
Tuesday, February 3, 2009
Survivor Mekong: Bangkok Bound
Sawadee from Bangkok! After about 28 hours we finally arrived in Bangkok. Yes if you can fathom that, try this at home. Find the least comfortable chair in your house, pull a dresser or other large immoveable object up to your knees then sit there continuously for 28 hours. Trust me it's a lot less fun than it sounds.
Bangkok is, of course, the usual shit show. Every taxi in this city seems to loose its meter function whenever farang (white people) sit inside. Then there's the classic "Amazing Race moment" where taxi drivers tell you they know where to go then continuing to get lost. We're staying at a place called Lamphu Tree House and the taxi driver from the Airport kept repeating "Lampu Tree How, I take you there... " followed by "Lamphu tree how rye? No proborem" Of course he dropped us off at Rambutri House then finally, after driving around for another 15 minutes, decided to look at a map. "Ah... Lamphu Tree How... I take you there." The kicker is, we had the instructions with us, written in Thai, so there would not be a proborem. In Bangkok, there's always proborems!
Well, I won't bore you with the issues we had today, because I just drank two delicious Changs and ate some fantastic Phad Thai and we're off to explore Koh San road before we board the train to Laos. The one good thing about Bangkok is, wherever you go from here, is bound to be sleepy and we're looking forward to some serious kicking back in Laos... it's famous for that.
Until Laos, this is Paul, still alive and still spotless.
Bangkok is, of course, the usual shit show. Every taxi in this city seems to loose its meter function whenever farang (white people) sit inside. Then there's the classic "Amazing Race moment" where taxi drivers tell you they know where to go then continuing to get lost. We're staying at a place called Lamphu Tree House and the taxi driver from the Airport kept repeating "Lampu Tree How, I take you there... " followed by "Lamphu tree how rye? No proborem" Of course he dropped us off at Rambutri House then finally, after driving around for another 15 minutes, decided to look at a map. "Ah... Lamphu Tree How... I take you there." The kicker is, we had the instructions with us, written in Thai, so there would not be a proborem. In Bangkok, there's always proborems!
Well, I won't bore you with the issues we had today, because I just drank two delicious Changs and ate some fantastic Phad Thai and we're off to explore Koh San road before we board the train to Laos. The one good thing about Bangkok is, wherever you go from here, is bound to be sleepy and we're looking forward to some serious kicking back in Laos... it's famous for that.
Until Laos, this is Paul, still alive and still spotless.
Saturday, January 31, 2009
Survivor Mekong pt. 1
Well the trip of a lifetime is bearing down on us and the tension is starting to mount. I know what you're thinking: tension, you're on holidays asshole, where's the tension? Well anytime you go this far away and to places you've hitherto known little about there's the fear of the unknown and the uncomfortable. Any of you who know me, know my tolerance to biting insects has diminished to the point of zero since our first trip to Thailand five years ago. It's like if someone hits you with a hammer, you know it's going to leave a mark, well, when a no-see-um lands on me, it's like a hammer blow that keeps swinging. And if someone is going to veer off the path to take a leak and trip a Bouncing Betty, it's yours truly. And Julia, well, she's known to have the odd freak out especially when it involved cockroaches or other large horned insects. Of course, she can rest assured the insect will make a bee line towards me as my blood is infinitely more tasty than hers. What are we getting ourselves into?
Well what is it about Laos that is of interest anyway? It's one of these places you'd never think of going unless you either know someone who's been there or read about people who've been there. Anyone who's been there has raved about it: one of the last unspoiled countries on Earth. Laos was closed by an insular communist government for almost three decades and before that was little more than a French colonial play-thing, where opium was cheap and you could build a mansion for next to nothing. The U.S. Air Force changed all that, by bombing Laos back to the stone age for little more reason than the Ho Chi Minh trail ran along its Eastern flank. Laos, already one of the poorest countries in the world, never stood a chance and to this day it's one of the most heavily bombed countries in the world, and it's only Laos left to clean up the mess.
But therein lies it's charm. The bombing brought the Pathet Laos into power and development was thus stunted in a neo-colonial backwater, where colonial mansions are now guesthouses and the country's significant ancient artifacts are virtually untouched. We will be spending about four days in Luang Prabang, the ancient Khymer capitol and a town with dozens of functioning buddhist monasteries, where the most exciting activity is watching monks collect alms form locals in a silent daily parade though the main street. What could be more deeply engrossing than that?
Near the capital Vientiane, we're spending three days at an ecolodge near the primary rainforest of one of Asia's last remaining wild elephant herds. This is where we hope to intermingle with rural people, learn of their daily struggles and try to connect with people one on one, as equals, not as tourist/service industry employee. The Laos countryside is thought to bring chills to even the most jaded spine, so we shall see. Here's three places we expect to stay. In Luang Prabang it's Lao Wooden House and near Vientiane it's Rivertime Ecolodge. We also plan on spending one night in Vientiane (Asia's sleepiest capital) at a place we're very excited about: Hotel Beau Rivage, with the Green Papaya Spa right next door.
http://www.laowoodenhouse.com/index.htm
http://www.rivertimelaos.com/index.html
http://www.hbrm.com/home.htm
Let the fun begin...
Well what is it about Laos that is of interest anyway? It's one of these places you'd never think of going unless you either know someone who's been there or read about people who've been there. Anyone who's been there has raved about it: one of the last unspoiled countries on Earth. Laos was closed by an insular communist government for almost three decades and before that was little more than a French colonial play-thing, where opium was cheap and you could build a mansion for next to nothing. The U.S. Air Force changed all that, by bombing Laos back to the stone age for little more reason than the Ho Chi Minh trail ran along its Eastern flank. Laos, already one of the poorest countries in the world, never stood a chance and to this day it's one of the most heavily bombed countries in the world, and it's only Laos left to clean up the mess.
But therein lies it's charm. The bombing brought the Pathet Laos into power and development was thus stunted in a neo-colonial backwater, where colonial mansions are now guesthouses and the country's significant ancient artifacts are virtually untouched. We will be spending about four days in Luang Prabang, the ancient Khymer capitol and a town with dozens of functioning buddhist monasteries, where the most exciting activity is watching monks collect alms form locals in a silent daily parade though the main street. What could be more deeply engrossing than that?
Near the capital Vientiane, we're spending three days at an ecolodge near the primary rainforest of one of Asia's last remaining wild elephant herds. This is where we hope to intermingle with rural people, learn of their daily struggles and try to connect with people one on one, as equals, not as tourist/service industry employee. The Laos countryside is thought to bring chills to even the most jaded spine, so we shall see. Here's three places we expect to stay. In Luang Prabang it's Lao Wooden House and near Vientiane it's Rivertime Ecolodge. We also plan on spending one night in Vientiane (Asia's sleepiest capital) at a place we're very excited about: Hotel Beau Rivage, with the Green Papaya Spa right next door.
http://www.laowoodenhouse.com/index.htm
http://www.rivertimelaos.com/index.html
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Monday, January 12, 2009
An open letter to Anita Neville, MP Crescentwood
On the news the other day you made a comment from the Stand For Israel rally saying that you were not concerned about loosing constituents with your support for Israel and for its right to defend itself. Well, you’ve lost these long-time Liberal constituents for good. We cannot, in good conscience, support a candidate who promotes the senseless murder of innocent men, women and children for political ends. Whether you support Hamas’ right to defend Gaza from an Israeli occupation army or you support Israel’s right defend against rocket attacks makes little difference to us. Whichever side fired the first shot and broke the precarious ceasefire is open for debate, but what we do know is that Israel is killing Palestinians at a rate of about 100 to 1 and over half are innocent civilians. We don’t want to lecture you on the history of the region and what constitutes right and wrong by standards of international law; we simply want to plead that you join with the tens of thousands of Palestinians, Israelis, Canadians and Winnipeggers that do not support violence in any way shape or form: these voices of reason, peace, security and mutual understanding scream in the wilderness every time Israeli and Palestinian radicals decide to blow each other bits. Please reconsider your stand: support a ceasefire and support the internationally recognized return of Palestine to pre-1967 borders in return for peace and stability for both Israelis and Palestinians. It has to happen eventually, only negotiating now will save a lot more blood and you just may win our votes.
Sincerely,
Paul and Julia Panchyshyn
Sincerely,
Paul and Julia Panchyshyn
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