Cambodia, barely thirty years removed from one of the worst genocides in modern history is still struggling to make a comeback, but the scars of its recent past are still being felt today. It is difficult for us to come face to face with so many amputees: here they seem to be the norm, all landmine victims. If there is any cause that everyone in the world should support, it's banning these little anonymous instruments of death and dismemberment. Around the fabulous temples of Angkor, bands of amputees play Cambodian classical music for dollars and for the privilege selling CDs. "We're not beggars" the sign says, "we want to live with dignity." Dignity. How hard must it be for someone walking on stumps to find dignity in a society that lives for a meager pittance of dollars.
Cambodia is a very moving place, but all the bodily destruction so evident in so many people is balanced by a strong desire amongst the Cambodian people to welcome the world back into their arms. Our hotel, Pavillon d'Orient is incredible, we love it so much we've decided to spend two extra days here, not visiting temples, but hanging around the hotel. We feel like millionairs staying here and the staff treat you like the first customer they've ever seen. How refreshing, if a little overwhelming.
We spent most of today visiting the temples of Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom: incredible structures with detailed carvings all around. In moments when the army of Asian tourists subsided, we were able to take a few pictures we hope will turn out. It's difficult because I've developed a new pet peeve: why is it, when people see something interesting, they cannot take a photograph of just the "the thing"they have to stand in front of it, strike a goofy pose, then wait while the rest of the extended family or bus load do the exact same thing.
The other challenge is the persistent children that haunt every entrance to every temple trying to sell you stuff. Here is your typical exchange:
"Hello, how are you, where are you from?"
"I'm from Canada."
"You from Canada, capital city Ottawa, big cities Toronto and Vancouver and your Prime Minister is Stephen Harper, population 33 million, what is your name?"
"How did you know all that? My name is Paul."
"Mr. Paul you buy something from me."
"No thank you... I..."
"Come on Mr. Paul you promise."
"No, not right now..."
"Oh Mr. Paul, don't walk away, look you make me cry."
Boy it's tough to fend these kids off, but the reward is worth the effort.
Tomorrow it's off to more temples and more information about Vishnu, Apsara and all the fantastic kings who ruled the Khmer empire from 900 until 1200 AD. Our trip is gradually drawing to a close but we've been so busy we cannot even remember arriving in Asia. Asia does that to a person. For anyone who doesn't think they can handle Asia all I can say is "give it a try." You'll be surprised. Still no squatter for me though I have developed a Herculean red welt on my leg from who knows what. (Cicadas revenge perhaps.)
What to do tonight... it's just too hot to do too much.
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